Elbrus Gora Biography

Before me is the Caucasus is harsh, its dense forests and chains of the mountains of the white-headed gloomy-firing beauty. My friend, you only heard about this wonderful world from rumor, you have not seen a formidable head in the crown of the star Elbrus. Here he is. Take a look, his top is dressed in blocks of snow, around the gray giant there are rows of his sons. Nikolai Nekrasov, g.

The geographical position and climate of the Caucasian mountains, sung by many poets and artists, are crowned by the proud two -headed handsome Elbrus. He, like a huge white ship, floats among the green slopes of the Caucasian mountains, literally piercing the heavenly vault with his peaks. This is the highest array of the side Caucasian ridge of the entire mountain system of these places.

Large cities closest to Elbrus are Nalchik and Kislovodsk. Elbrus is the highest mountain of Russia and Europe. The diameter of its base is 15 km, two peaks, the eastern m and the western m, are separated by a long gentle saddle m. The distance between the peaks is the m. Elbrus - a mountain of volcanic origin. Mount Elbrus is composed of layers of ash, frozen lava and tufa - porous breed.

The greatest volcanic activity of Elbrus was - thousands of years ago. As a volcano Elbrus has been sleeping for a long time, but not completely went out. The volcano is unlikely to wake up in the next two or three centuries. Scientists still have not agreed, an extinct volcano or simply fell asleep. About volcanism on Elbrus resembles the release of sulfate and chloride gases on the eastern slopes.

Elbrus is covered with a hat of snow and ice all year round. On its slopes there are about 70 glaciers, with a total area of ​​more than square kilometers. In recent years, due to warming, the area of ​​local glaciers has been constantly declining. The climate of the surroundings of the Elbrus is soft, with low humidity, which allows you to easily endure frosty weather. The climate on Elbrus itself is very harsh, close to the Arctic with abundant precipitation and strong piercing winds.

The abundance of precipitation is caused by the fact that Atlantic air masses settled here. The warm moist air of the Atlantic Ocean reaches the Elbrus and, cooling, gives moisture frozen to snow. The air temperature at the top of the mountain can reach degrees. The coldest month is February, the warmest is July. For a light climb, August is the most favorable month, when the snow tags a little, exposing cracks that are not visible at another time of the year and pose a danger to climbers.

So, by the way, according to one version, the Persians previously called the entire Caucasian ridge. But gradually the name was preserved only for the highest mountain of the Caucasus. In favor of this version, the fact of the presence of Mount Elburs in Iran itself is indicated. Residents of the Caucasus living near the mountain call it each in their own way.

For Karachais and Balkars, he is Mingi -Tau - the Eternal Mountain. For the Circassians - Oshkhamaho - "Mountain of Happiness." Abkhazians call Elbrus Orfi-Tube-"Mount of Blessed." Georgians have been called Mount Ialbuzi - “The mane of snow” from time immemorial. There is another version of the Georgian name of Elbrus - Burcimi - "condensively heaving." In the Armenian language, its name sounds Alberis - perhaps it comes from the Georgian version.

Numerous legends say that Elbrus is a young man who fell in battles for his beloved Mashuk Gora near Pyatigorsk. In the legends of Kazbek, it is mentioned as the father of Elbrus, and the nearby Mount Beshtau as an adversary with whom the battle took place for his lover. Some legends talk about the interaction of Noah's ark with Elbrus. During the World Flood, the ark of Noah touched the top of Elbrus sticking out of the water.

He touched with such force that the top of the mountain split in two. Noah, tired of swimming by the will of the waves, asked the Mountain of Refuge. Without forgiven the disrespectful attitude, the mountain refused. Then he cursed the Noah peak: “And even if spring will be at your feet, and the flowers will bloom, the middle will always be in the fall, and the peaks will be eternal in winter.” And since then, the top of the Elbrus bifurcated by the Ark has been covered with eternal ice and snow.

And Noah's ark found a refuge on Ararat. The ascents to Elbrus Elbrus can be considered the birthplace of Russian mountaineering. The first ascent to the eastern peak of Elbrus was committed by an expedition of the Russian Academy under the leadership of General Emmanuel. The route ran from the north side of Elbrus. Others went up three hundred meters below at the mark in the year by the base camp of the expedition discovered a commemorative inscription “Emmanuel Rock”.

Climbing the highest point of Elbrus - the western peak in a meter took place only in a year. He was performed by a group of English climbers, led by Florence Groma. Nowadays, the ascent to Elbrus has become massive. Many want to test their strength and conquer the highest point in Europe. There are several routes on Elbrus. Classic route along the southern slope.

From the shelter of the "barrel" of meters, he goes up to the eastern peak. The route runs past the former “shelter of eleven” meters, a number of new shelters and rocks of Pastukhov above these rocks are the ice field.From a height of meters, the route along a gentle “oblique shelf” goes to the saddle from the saddle, a rise is carried out about meters to any of the peaks.

A significant part of the path is to the “shelter of eleven” or even to the rocks of Pastukhov meters can be traveling on a commercial advantage. However, the level of acclimatization is reduced and climbing to the top itself can go harder. Climbing the classics on Elbrus, taking into account the road, acclimatization outputs, vagaries of weather and physical readiness on average takes 7-10 days.

Elbrus route along the northern slope is more difficult. From the base camp, it leads through the northern shelter and the cliffs of Lenz meters to the eastern peak. There is an opportunity to go with a traverse to the saddle and to the western peak. Choosing a route and season, buying clothes and equipment, physical and moral preparation. The ascent itself does not represent any technical complexity.

The main question is which season to choose to climb on Elbrus? The best time to climb is the moment when the weather is good, regardless of the season. On Elbrus, three seasons can be distinguished: summer, winter and off -season spring and autumn. The first ascent should definitely be done only in the summer. But in the summer a long daylight day is not as cold in the afternoon as in other seasons.

The main problem of summer ascent is thunderstorms, it is very difficult to hide somewhere from them. Therefore, if the weather is planned bad, it is better to postpone the ascent. Winter ascent to Elbrus is much more complicated than summer. In winter, on Elbrus from October to April, low temperatures from - 20 to - 50 and more degrees, squalled and piercing winds, which sometimes completely blow snow from its ice slopes.

Dangerous “bottle” ice make the top of Elbrus in winter almost impregnable, the percentage of successful ascents is much lower than in the summer. You need to be prepared to the winter ascension to Elbrus. The experience of summer ascents to the peaks above M and the winter campaign is required. Great physical training and proper equipment, knowledge of the basics of mountaineering are also needed.

The stages of acclimatization ascent to Elbrus are not only a victory over himself in the event of a peak, but also the strongest stress for the body, which everyone experiences differently. Regardless of the climbing season, the main thing for participants is to go through the correct acclimatization. Exits to large heights, rest in the green zone and the ascent itself are needed. Acclimatization should be gradual and you need to walk in the mountains before climbing, saving strength, no need to rush and try to somehow practice the body.

This is too late. The first day is an ordinary unhurried walk in the mountains of Elbrus; The second day is a leisurely climb on Cheget. The height is approximately there, at least for an hour, to drink tea from a thermos, eat and slowly return to Terskol; The third day is the rise to the waterfall of the girl’s braids and higher to the observatory, to the height is approximately.

To be angry with views and go down; The fourth day - you can on the lift on the barrels or a little lower; The fifth day - to rise higher on the rocky ridge behind the stones on the right along the way; Sixth day - rise to meters and slowly back; The conclusion no matter what your ascent to Elbrus is successful or not, the main thing is to remember that the path to the top is the path to yourself.

It is the mountains that will open before you new awareness and discoveries. In the mountains, everything exacerbates and there is no longer a place for all feelings and emotions. In the mountains, everyone became real, and this is the best opportunity to know oneself. After climbing, you can no longer be the same - it will change you forever.